Here's
an overview of indispensable climbing gear. If you start out at a gym or climb
with a guide, all the necessary equipment is usually provided. But eventually
you'll want to get your own.
Tip: Always inspect your gear before
climbing—whether you own it or rent it. Frequent use inevitably results in some
wear and tear. The advantage of buying your own gear is that you know its
history.
Climbing Harness
Unless you are
bouldering, you need a climbing harness. A harness consists of 2 basic parts:
- Waistbelt:
This sits over the hips and must fit snugly.
- Leg
loops: One loop goes around each leg. Many harnesses conveniently offer adjustable
or removable leg loops.
Your
harness allows you to tie into the rope safely and efficiently. All harnesses
have a front tie-in point designed specifically for threading the rope and
tying in. Generally the tie-in point is different than the dedicated belay
loop. Buckling your harness correctly is essential for safety.
The
right harness model depends on the type of climbing you plan on doing.
Rock Climbing Shoes
Climbing shoes
protect your feet while providing the friction you need to grip footholds. Most
styles are quite versatile, but your climbing ability and where you climb are
both factors in choosing the correct shoe.
Rock
shoes should fit snugly but not painfully tight. The general rule is that the
harder you climb, the closer-fitting the shoe should be.
Note:
Rock shoes aren't comfortable for walking long distances. For the hike from
your car to the base of your climbing area, wear "approach shoes"
such as trail runners. Climbing shoes are for climbing only.
Climbing Helmet
When climbing
outdoors, you should always wear a helmet made specifically for climbing.
Climbing helmets are designed to cushion your head from falling rock and
debris, as well as provide protection in the case of a fall. They are generally
not worn in a climbing gym since it's a controlled environment.
A
helmet should feel comfortable, fit snugly but not too tight and sit flat on
your head. Helmets have a hard, durable protective shell and an internal
strapping system that consists of the harness, headband and chin strap.
All
climbing helmets must meet the UIAA (Union Internationale des Associations
d'Alpinisme) and CE (European Committee for Standardization) standards to
protect your head from top and side impacts.
Carabiners
These strong, light
metal rings with spring-loaded gates connect the climbing rope to pieces of
climbing protection such as bolts, nuts and camming devices. They are also used
to make quickdraws and to rack (attach) your gear to your gear slings. You need
at least a dozen carabiners on most climbs.
They
come in a few basic shapes:
- Oval:
A basic 'biner that can be used for just about any climbing situation.
- D-shape:
Stronger carabiners because the D shape can withstand more outward force.
- Asymmetrical
D-shape: Smaller at one end to reduce weight, and the shape tends to push
the rope to the solid side of the carabiner.
Carabiners
also come in different gate styles:
- Straight:
Spring-loaded, opens easily when pushed, rotates closed.
- Bent:
Designed for easy clipping, but should not be used for protection.
- Locking:
Used when a single carabiner is needed and for extra protection, as in
belaying.
- Wire:
Uses a loop of stainless-steel wire for a gate.
Belay Device
This is used to
control the rope in order to secure a climber's progress. Used correctly, a belay
device can be used to can catch a fall, lower a climber, play the rope out as
the climber advances or reel in the rope to provide tension. There are several
styles—tubular, self-braking and figure-8.
Quickdraws
A quickdraw consists
of 2 carabiners connected by a sling (also called a runner). While you can
fashion your own from webbing and carabiners, pre-stitched 'draws greatly
increase speed and efficiency when clipping bolts, making them essential for
sport climbing. Pre-stitched quickdraws are convenient for clipping onto bolts,
ropes and gear.
Climbing Ropes
No piece of gear is
more important to a climber than the rope. A climbing rope is your lifeline and
a very specialized piece of gear. There are different qualities of rope, and
where and what you are climbing will determine which rope is best for you.
The
2 basic categories of rope:
- Dynamic:
This is a rock climbing rope because it has elasticity worked into it.
It's designed to absorb the energy of a fall—even though the force of a
fall can be very large.
- Static:
This is a relatively stiff rope that, unlike dynamic rope, does not have
much elasticity. It is used for rappelling and rescues.
All
climbing ropes must pass the UIAA tests which regulate the number of falls a
rope can hold, the impact force and the dynamic elongation.
Climbing Protection
Often
simply called "pro," these devices are used in traditional climbing
to secure a climbing rope to the rock. Placed properly in a crack or hole, they
prevent a climber from falling any significant distance. Types of pro include
cams, chocks and nuts, often referred to by trade names such as Stoppers,
Hexcentrics or Friends. In an earlier era, pitons were most often used.
There
are 2 basic types of pro, both of which come in a variety of sizes:
- Active:
These have movable parts, such as a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD)
that can adapt to fit a variety of cracks.
- Passive:
These are made from a single piece of metal and have no movable parts,
such as a Hexcentric.
A
beginning climber is most likely to start out top-roping at a climbing gym or
outdoors on routes with permanent anchors on top. Learning to set anchors and
place protection adds an exciting dimension to the sport and makes you a safer,
more well-rounded climber.
Other Gear Considerations
Clothing:
Wear clothing that is not restrictive and won't get in the way of you or the
rope. It should breathe and manage moisture so you stay warm or cool while
climbing. If you climb outdoors, always plan for changing conditions.
Chalk:
Just like gymnasts, climbers use chalk to improve their grip. Chalk absorbs
perspiration on your hands. To lessen environmental impact, it's good form to
use a chalk that matches the color of the rock you're climbing. Chalk is
carried in a small pouch slung from your waist by a lightweight belt. Chalk
balls are good choices for indoor use as they keep dust to a minimum; outdoors
you'll want it in loose powder form.
Crash
pads: A must for bouldering, these dense foam pads are placed under the climber
to cushion a fall or jump. These ankle-saving wonders come in different
weights, shapes and sizes.
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